Have you ever wondered how to correctly plumb your power washer?

Pressure Washer Products loves to empower our customers through education.  Mount the pressure washer lower in relationship to the supply port or bulkhead of the water tank but remember to use shock absorbing rubber pucks (part# 4542) on your skid L-brackets (1213) of the pressure washer.  Most pressure washers can be converted from cart with wheels to skid units by removing the wheels and installing L-brackets (1213) for your unit available through us.

Minimize the use of extra fittings.  Do not use galvanized fittings or metal ball valves between your pump and water tank because they will likely corrode and flake little chunks into your pump valves leading to vibration and/or damage.  Avoid extra elbows.  Do not use PVC pipe anywhere.  PVC pipe can become brittle and doesn't tolerate the weight of a surface cleaner, ladder or your body weight for long.  If not installed correctly, air will find it's way into your pump leading to manifold damage.  Install components using non-drying liquid Teflon and NEVER use Teflon tape.  

You can use brass, SCH 80 PVC or stainless steel hose barbs on the non-collapsible suction hose. The 1" brass hose barbs are 4001, the SCH PVC barbs are HB1616.80 and the stainless steel fittings are HB1616SS.  We suggest the brass at the pump and SCH 80 on the hose.  Brass can be used for areas enduring high abuse.  Stainless steel barbs are an overkill.  Polypropylene fittings contain fiberglass that will break down in sunlight.


If plumbing a higher volume pump such as a TSF2021 with a 3/4" inlet, you will need a 5049, HB2424P, AGC24, BH24F or CL32F, stainless steel hose clamps, AGY06 or AGY08 for the bypass return hose, a 4468, either a 4796 or 4784.

Never adjust your unloader.  The unloader should be set using a whip hose, high pressure ball valve, high pressure steel tee, snubber and gauge to 200 psi above the operating pressure of the pump and left alone.  Do not install check valves or any type of swivel fitting on the suction/supply hose assembly or air may become entrained causing expensive damage from cavitation. 

Working with non-collapsible hose can be challenging.   We have the several heat guns and ratcheting pvc hose cutters to tame the hose.  When installing the hose into hose barbs, first slide the hose clamp a few feet away from the cut end.  Grab some Slo Mo Softwash Surfactant (Slo Mo-5) for Sodium Hypochlorite, dish soap or shampoo and coat your finger or old toothbrush with a generous amount.  Apply the soap to the inside several inches and to the barb end of the hose barb.  Turn on the heat gun and hold the heat source about 3-4" away from the hose end while rotating the hose as you try to apply the heat as evenly as possible.  Heat ONLY until the hose turns shiny and releases a single plume of smoke.  Turn off the heat gun and set it aside to cool.  Install the barb into the hose end and push it down against the ground or vertical surface.  Allow the end to cool naturally, move the hose clamp toward the center of the barb and tighten securely.  Install the hose clamp to allow you to access it easily in the future so that you do not have to struggle to use a tool on the clamp.

The unloader bypass hose (AGY06 or AGY08) that sends water back to the tank when you release the trigger on your gun should be installed using 3/8" or 1/2" kink resistant hose.  The port (4468) should be installed so that the stream of water shooting into the tank does not point directly at the pressure washer suction/supply bulkhead (4491, BH24F or CL32F).  You don't want to create air bubbles in your supply water.  The bypass hose running back to your tank will act as a back-up for your thermal relief valve mounted on the opposite side of your pump to the suction hose assembly.  Use a brass elbow at the bypass return bulkhead (4784 or 4796).

The 8 gpm plumbing kit for a horizontal leg tank is available in a kit as part PL-8-TA and a tote plumbing kit is PL-8-TO.

​The 4 - 6 gpm plumbing kit for a horizontal leg tank is available in a kit as part number PL-4-TA and a tote plumbing kit is PL-4-TO.

A Few Words About The High Pressure Side of the Pump

Do not use Teflon tape on any fittings.  Use medium, removable threadlock (5003, 10 mL or 5004 50mL).   Try not to use elbows or extra fittings.  When at all possible, minimize the use of quick connects.  Install the chemical injector at least 3' away from the unloader to prevent back-siphoning of chemical into the internal components of the unloader.  Always remove the chemical injector assembly when not in use.  

Use a R2 or 2 wire jump hose on the high pressure outlet of your unloader to your reel because it will last much longer.

Before purchasing a telescoping wand, try out some long range nozzles such as 0020, 0025, 0030, 0035, 0040, 0050 and 0060 installed into female plugs.  You can also purchase our 6540-4 or 6540-8 JROD kits.  To improve your vertical reach with these nozzles, use them with a 6', 7', 8', 10' or 12' aluminum wand and a side handle (1536) for added control. 

When using 8 gpm or more, use a 1/2" ID high pressure jump hose (505040BLK) to your reel, use 50' of 1/2" ID high pressure hose coming off the reel and replace the 1/4" ID high pressure hose on your surface cleaner with 3/8" ID.  We can custom cut and crimp your high pressure hose to your desired length and ship them to you.

Questions:  Sales@PressureWasherProducts.com or call (727) 562-5488


​***Supply/suction hose inner diameter (ID) should be DOUBLED compared to the pump inlet/suction port.  For example, the General Pump TS2021 (HP5535) has a 1/2" inlet on either side of the bottom manifold of the pump. Use a HB1608B, HB1608SS or (5049 for the TSF2021)  on the inlet instead of a garden hose swivel if connecting to a tank.  The pump should be supplied with 1" non-collapsible suction hose (AGC16 or AGC16* and AGC24 or AGC24*).



Pressure Washer Service, Inc.